Java's pilgrimage culture is a dense, batik-like pattern of contradictions: seriousness collides with laughter; curiosity with bewilderment; piety with scepticism; intense spirituality with, in some places, the joy of shopping. The pilgrimage culture on the island of Java in Indonesia - the world's largest Muslim country - is a rebuke to the conservative orthodoxy that has been gaining ground in Indonesia's religious landscape since the 1980s. In the rhetoric of this orthodoxy the "real" Islam is pure and exclusive. Piety comes from obedience to religious authority and its rules.
